Shuttleless Loom
A shuttleless loom is a general term for looms that produce woven fabric by inserting the weft yarn using methods such as air, water, or rapier, without using a shuttle to carry the weft yarn.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Shuttleless looms are a general term for looms that do not use a shuttle, unlike conventional shuttle looms, which move a shuttle, also called a bobbin, back and forth between the warp yarns. Depending on the mechanism used to insert the weft yarn, they are classified into air jet, water jet, and rapier types.
The type of loom is not the same as the weave name or material name of the textile. Even with the same plain weave or twill weave, the appearance and performance differ depending on the yarn used, density, finishing, and loom type.
- Air jet loom: a method that inserts the weft yarn using the force of air.
- Water jet loom: a method that inserts the weft yarn using a water stream.
- Rapier loom: a method that transfers the weft yarn with a gripper called a rapier.
Features and Hand Feel
Shuttleless looms generally have high productivity and are used to make wide textiles and textiles with uniform quality. However, hand feel cannot be judged uniformly by shuttleless looms alone. Yarn type, insertion density, weaving conditions, and finishing all greatly affect hand feel.
In methods that insert the weft yarn at high speed, it is important to control the proper tension and supply conditions for the yarn. With fine-count yarns, high-twist yarns, filament yarns, and fancy yarns, the ease of weaving and the surface appearance may change depending on the loom type used.
Main Applications
Textiles woven on shuttleless looms are used in a wide range of products, from shirts, blouses, pants, jackets, skirts, and outerwear to uniforms and sports and outdoor applications. Applications are determined not by the loom name, but by the textile material, thickness, weave, and functional finishing.
For lightweight woven fabrics made with filament yarns such as polyester and nylon, jet looms may be used. On the other hand, for textiles that handle patterns or multiple colors of weft yarn, or textiles that use thick yarns or delicate yarns, rapier looms may be selected.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting a textile, check not only that it is made on a shuttleless loom, but also the blend ratio, fabric weight, density, width, finishing, shrinkage rate, and colorfastness. For mass production, it is also reassuring to check the difference in hand feel, color, width, and lot variation between the sample and actual production.
Shrinkage, wrinkles from washing, puckering during sewing, needle holes, and fraying are mainly affected by the fiber material, weave, and processing conditions. Before cutting, align the grainline, and for thin or high-density textiles, test the needle, thread, and sewing conditions before deciding on the sewing settings.
Difference from Shuttle Looms
A shuttle loom is a method of weaving by passing a shuttle wound with weft yarn through the warp shed. A shuttleless loom inserts the weft yarn without using a shuttle. The difference between the two is the weaving method; it does not directly indicate whether the textile is good or bad, or whether the hand feel is superior or inferior.
Textiles woven on shuttle looms may have distinctive selvages, but shuttleless looms form the edge differently. If decorative edge design such as selvedge is important, it is necessary to check the loom type and edge specifications separately.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are shuttleless looms and air jet looms the same?
An air jet loom is one type of shuttleless loom. Shuttleless looms refer generally to looms that do not use a shuttle, and among them are air jets that insert the weft yarn with air, water jets that use water flow, and rapiers that use grippers.
Do textiles made on shuttleless looms shrink when washed?
The degree of shrinkage is not determined by whether the loom is shuttleless. It varies depending on the characteristics of the material, such as cotton, linen, and wool, the weave, processing, and the finished state of the textile. It is important to conduct washing tests before mass production and reflect the shrinkage rate in the pattern and specifications.
Which is higher quality, shuttleless looms or shuttle looms?
Quality cannot be judged by loom type alone. The suitable method differs depending on the required hand feel, weave, yarn use, edge specifications, and production volume. Selection should be made after checking the surface texture, density, strength, and suitability for sewing using textile samples.
