Momme
Momme is a traditional unit mainly used to indicate the weight of silk textile, and it shows a guide to how thin or thick the textile is based on its weight per unit area.
Contents5 sections
Definition and Overview
Momme is a unit of mass derived from Japan's traditional shakkan-ho system. In the textile field, it is mainly used as an indicator of silk weight, and generally expresses textile weight in momme per square yard. One momme is approx. 3.75 grams.
When comparing textiles of the same weave and material, a higher momme number generally means the textile is heavier and has more thickness and density. However, momme is not a unit for indicating a textile's weave, fiber type, processing method, or width.
Guide to Hand Feel and Appearance
Silk with a lower momme number tends to be thin, light, and easily gives a sheerness and delicate drape. For blouses, scarves, and linings, select it while checking the balance between the desired drape and sheerness.
As the momme number increases, the textile generally becomes thicker and more likely to give a moderate firmness and a sense of durability. On the other hand, even with the same momme number, shine, softness, and appearance can vary greatly depending on the weave, such as satin or plain weave, and the yarn thickness.
Main Applications
Momme indications are often seen in silk textiles and are used to select materials from light to medium-weight and heavy fabrics. Items that make use of lightness include blouses, scarves, lingerie, and linings, while dresses, shirts, bottoms, and bedding are also considered when thickness is desired.
Do not decide applications by momme alone; judge by combining weave, blend ratio, finish, sheerness, tear strength, and sewing specifications. In particular, because the required durability and slipperiness differ between outer fabric and lining, it is important to check with an actual textile sample.
Selection and Handling Notes
Momme is an indicator of weight per area and is a concept close to fabric weight, but fabric weight is usually expressed in grams per square meter. Denier indicates weight per length of yarn, and yarn count is an index showing yarn thickness, so the comparison basis differs from momme.
Shrinkage and changes in hand feel due to washing cannot be determined from momme alone. Silk may be affected by moisture, friction, and heat, so check the care label and processing details, and perform water soaking and washing tests before mass production.
Thin textiles make needle holes, seam puckering, and seam slippage more noticeable, so choose a fine needle and sewing thread suitable for the textile, and test the sewing conditions. Even for thicker textiles, check in advance for steps at overlapped areas and the finishing of seam allowances.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does a higher momme number always mean a stronger textile?
A textile with a higher momme number generally has greater weight and thickness, but strength cannot be judged uniformly. Strength is also affected by fiber type, yarn thickness, weaving density, weave structure, and processing. The tear strength and abrasion resistance required for the application should be confirmed separately through test values or textile samples.
How should momme and fabric weight be used differently?
Momme is an indication of weight per fixed area, mainly used for silk textiles. Fabric weight is usually expressed in grams per square meter, so it is widely used for textile specifications regardless of material. When comparing, it is necessary to confirm whether the area basis shown is the same.
