Inner Tacking
Inner tacking is a sewing specification in which the outer fabric and lining of a garment are partially tacked together at key points to prevent the lining from shifting or showing at the hem while preserving ease of movement during wear.
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Definition and Overview
Inner tacking is the process, or method, of partially tacking together the outer fabric and lining at a few points on the inside of a finished garment. Rather than sewing the outer fabric and lining together all over, the necessary points are fixed at spots or over short sections.
Because of differences in material properties and movement, the outer fabric and lining shift relative to each other during wear and cleaning. Inner tacking serves to correct this misalignment and prevent the lining from coming out at the outside or hem opening.
Applicable Areas and Function
It is used in lined products such as jackets, coats, skirts, and dresses. In general, it is applied to areas where the lining tends to move, such as the center back, sides, around the armhole, cuffs, and hemline, or to areas where stability is desired.
By providing fixed points, it helps prevent the lining from being pulled out when putting on or taking off the garment and keeps the relationship between the outer fabric and lining from shifting. On the other hand, if it is over-fixed, the outer fabric and lining pull against each other, leading to tightness and wrinkles during wear.
Material and Specification Considerations
Inner tacking uses sewing thread or hand-sewing thread that blends well with the outer fabric and lining, and depending on the specification, it may also be secured through tape or loop-shaped auxiliary materials. Choose positions where stitches are less likely to show on the outside, and a securing method that does not pull on the outer fabric.
The more slippery the lining material, the easier it is to move, and the more necessary inner tacking may become. Conversely, with thin outer fabrics, sheer outer fabrics, or brushed or napped outer fabrics, consider a specification that does not make needle marks, puckering, or visible stitching on the outside stand out.
With stretch outer fabrics or knit fabrics, if the amount of stretch differs between the lining and the outer fabric, stress concentrates on the inner tacking points. Check that the fastening method and position do not hinder the stretch of the outer fabric, and match the lining's stretch to the overall movement of the product.
Sewing Precautions
Inner tacking positions are determined by considering ease allowances in the pattern, ease, and differences in shrinkage between the outer fabric and lining. Ease is the slight allowance provided at the seam area; if tacked without securing this allowance, the outer fabric or lining is more likely to pucker.
Before mass production, check the garment in motion, while hanging, and after washing or cleaning. If the tacking thread is too long, it can tangle easily; if too short, it can restrict movement, so it is important to clearly specify the tacking areas and method in the product specification sheet.
- Check that needle marks or stitches do not show on the outer fabric.
- Leave enough allowance in the lining to prevent puckering.
- Check that the tacking positions and lengths are consistent on both sides.
- Check that the tacking thread does not break or damage the outer fabric during wear.
Differences from Similar Terms
Lining securing may refer to auxiliary materials or fasteners used to attach the lining to the outer fabric, or to that function. Inner tacking differs in that it primarily refers to the sewing process or specification for stitching and fixing the outer fabric and lining together.
Ease is the allowance provided to prevent pulling between the outer fabric and lining, or between sewn pieces of fabric. Inner tacking is the act of fixing, while ease is the allowance that helps maintain a natural shape, including the fixed sections.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is inner tacking always necessary?
Not necessarily. It depends on the area of the lining, the difference in slipperiness and stretch between the outer fabric and lining, the product design, and the amount of movement during wear. However, in products with a large amount of lining movement, appropriate inner tacking helps stabilize both appearance and comfort.
Can increasing inner tacking prevent lining shift?
If the number of tacking points is increased too much, the outer fabric and lining may pull against each other, causing tightness and wrinkles. It is important to limit tacking to the areas where misalignment needs to be controlled, and to set the positions and lengths so they do not hinder lining ease or outer fabric stretch.
