Construction Stitching
Construction stitching is the sewing process of sewing the cut parts together according to the pattern to create the product’s basic shape.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Construction stitching is the process of sewing cut parts such as the body, sleeves, collar, and pockets together to build the framework of the garment. In many cases, it is sewn on the inside of the seam allowance with a lockstitch machine, creating the foundation for later finishing and topstitching.
Although it may also refer to the stitching type itself, in practice it can mean the entire sewing operation for assembly, not just a specific stitch method. In specifications, it is important to clearly state the stitch type and seam finishing separately.
Position in Garment Production
In general sewing, construction stitching is performed after preparation such as spreading fabric, cutting, and, if needed, interfacing. After the shape of each section is assembled by construction stitching, the process moves on to seam finishing, pressing, and finishing stitches such as edge stitching and understitching.
The order of operations varies by item and specification. For example, because some areas such as pockets and darts are processed first while the parts are still flat, the sequence of construction stitching is set with sewing ease, quality, and efficiency in mind.
- Main joining of front and back bodies, sides, and shoulders
- Attaching parts such as sleeves and collars
- Shaping details such as darts, seams, and yokes
- Preparation for later seam finishing and securing stitches
Process and Practical Points
Before sewing, check the pattern notches, matching marks, grainline, and front/back orientation so that left and right parts and print alignment are not mixed up. Whether backstitching is used at the start and end, how easing is distributed, and the direction the seam allowance is pressed should also be shared in advance as part of the specification.
Adjust the needle, thread, presser foot, feed settings, and thread tension according to the fabric thickness, stretch, and slipperiness. For stretchable knits and bias areas, pulling while sewing can easily change the measurements, so consider stretch prevention or differential feed as needed.
Ordering and Quality Considerations
When placing an order with a sewing factory, the instruction "construction stitching" alone may not be enough to define the specification. Confirm the stitch type, seam allowance width, stitch count, seam finishing, thread color, stitch position, seam allowance pressing direction, and allowable tolerances in the specification sheet and sample.
During inspection, check for skipped seams, skipped stitches, seam allowance catching, seam slippage, left-right imbalance, and puckering. Defects are especially likely to appear at curved sections, thick intersections, and joining areas of stretch materials, so it is effective to perform sewing tests on actual fabric before mass production.
Differences from Similar Terms
Lockstitch refers to the representative stitch type that uses an upper thread and a lower thread. Construction stitching, on the other hand, usually refers to the process or operation of assembling the product, and stitches other than lockstitch may also be used.
Overlock is a sewing method that joins fabric edges while preventing fraying. It may be done after construction stitching as edge finishing for the seam allowance, or it may be done at the same time as construction stitching, so the process specification needs to be clear.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do construction stitching and lockstitch mean the same thing?
No. Lockstitch refers to a stitch type, while construction stitching is usually a term for the process of assembling cut parts. It is common to use lockstitch for construction stitching, but depending on the material and part, chain stitching or overlock may also be used.
What should be communicated to the factory in an instruction for construction stitching?
State the stitch type, seam allowance width, seam allowance pressing direction, seam finishing, whether backstitching is used, thread color, stitch count, and stitch position. In addition, sharing the easing amount, pattern matching, and the locations where stretch prevention is used in the specification sheet and sample helps reduce misunderstandings.
How can puckering be prevented in construction stitching?
Check whether the thread is too thick for the fabric, whether the thread tension is too strong, and whether the needle and stitch count are appropriate. Sew without pulling the fabric and test on actual fabric, including the pressing conditions after sewing. Since differences in shrinkage between materials also have an effect, pre-production sample confirmation is necessary.
