Shiozawa Tsumugi

Definition and Production Area

Shiozawa Tsumugi is a silk textile produced mainly in the Shiozawa area of Minamiuonuma City, Niigata Prefecture. In some cases, it is treated as tsumugi fabric, and in others it is used as a local textile name including omeshi-type fabrics with a textured surface.

Because the production area name is neither a material name nor a weave name, the term Shiozawa Tsumugi alone does not specify the yarn type, weaving method, pattern, or standard. For planning and procurement, it is necessary to check the specifications of each fabric.

Technique and Texture

In the Shiozawa area, strong-twist yarns that apply a high degree of twist to silk yarn, and kasuri techniques that express patterns with separately dyed yarns, have developed. Fabrics made with strong-twist yarns develop small irregularities, or textured crimp, through the finishing process, and tend to have a smooth feel.

Representative Honshiozawa is a textile characterized by the texture created by strong-twist yarn and kasuri patterns. Shiozawa Omeshi, on the other hand, is a name indicating the character of omeshi, and even when the name is associated with the same production area, the production method and appearance are not always identical.

• Textured crimp reduces the area of contact with the skin and contributes to a smooth feel.
• Kasuri is a technique in which the warp or weft yarns are dyed in advance and the pattern is expressed during weaving.
• The strength of the texture and the firmness change depending on differences in yarn twist, density, dyeing, and finishing.

Typical Fabrics and Applications

Shiozawa Tsumugi has mainly been used as kimono-length fabric for kimono. It comes in expressions such as kasuri, stripes, and solid-like designs, and is suited to Japanese clothing applications that make use of the textile appearance characteristic of its production area.

When applying it to apparel fabrics or miscellaneous goods, the fact that it is a narrow-width fabric for Japanese clothing, and that it has a pattern direction and repeat, should be taken into account when considering material consumption and cutting design. Even when product washing is planned, advance testing is important.

Points to Check When Procuring

Do not judge based only on the production area name; confirm with the supplier whether it refers to Honshiozawa, Shiozawa Omeshi, or Shiozawa Tsumugi. Record the blend ratio, fabric width, roll length, weave structure, presence or absence of texture, pattern type, and usable side in the specification sheet.

Fabrics with traditional methods or kasuri patterns may have different conditions for continuous supply of the same item compared with mass-produced materials. In addition to the required quantity, confirm the minimum lot size, whether additional production is possible, differences between the sample and the actual production, and the delivery date at the planning stage.

• Notation of the production area and manufacturer, and the basis for that notation
• Acceptable range of differences in color tone, kasuri pattern, and texture feel between rolls
• Effective width, roll length, selvage condition, pattern direction, and cutting loss
• Lot, lead time, and likelihood of consistency for additional orders
• Test data such as washing method, shrinkage rate, and rubbing fastness

Differences from Similar Terms

Tsumugi generally refers to a group of fabrics that often use yarn-dyed yarn or to their texture. Shiozawa Tsumugi is a name tied to the Shiozawa area among these, and not all tsumugi is Shiozawa Tsumugi.

Omeshi often refers to woven fabrics made with pre-twisted silk yarn, and Shiozawa Omeshi is a term that combines the production area name and the fabric name. Since distinctions from Honshiozawa and naming practices are also influenced by market usage, confirm them using individual certificates and specifications.

Frequently Asked Questions