Twist Setting
Twist setting is a process that applies heat, moisture, or similar treatment to twisted yarn to suppress the tendency of the twist to spring back, stabilizing the yarn’s shape and making it easier to handle.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Twist setting is a treatment used to stabilize the twist applied to spun yarn and filament yarn. Because yarn after twisting has a tendency to spring back, steam, heat, moisture, and similar methods are used to relieve internal strain and settle the twist.
It does not refer to the twisting process itself, but to the process of stabilizing the twisted condition after twisting. It differs in purpose and target from shrink-proof finishing and shape-retention finishing applied to fabric, and is mainly related to yarn handling and appearance stability.
Features
Twist-set yarn is less likely to twist, tangle, or form looped snarls when the yarn end is released freely. It is especially used to stabilize handling in processes such as warping, weaving, knitting, and sewing for highly twisted yarns.
For high-twist yarns, it is important to suppress excessive snarling while taking advantage of the crisp feel, dry touch, and fine uneven texture created by the twist. However, the hand, stretch, and surface appearance vary depending on the fiber type, twist amount, and processing conditions.
Main Applications
Twist-set yarn is used in crepe-like and georgette-like woven fabrics made with high-twist yarns, lightweight woven fabrics, knits, and more. It may be used for spring and summer shirts, blouses, dresses, skirts, and similar items that aim for a cool feel and good separation from the skin.
On the other hand, twist setting is not a material name or a woven structure name. Even with the same fabric name, the surface texture, drape, and dimensional change vary depending on the yarn twist, whether twist setting was applied, and the finishing.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting fabric, do not judge quality by the presence or absence of twist setting alone; check it together with fiber blend ratio, structure, fabric weight, finishing, and care instructions. Before mass production, it is important to open the roll, and confirm dimensions before and after cutting, skewing, twisting, and shrinkage after washing using actual samples.
Fabrics with a high twist may twist at the edges after cutting, or show waviness and puckering at seams. Cut along the grain correctly, and adjust sewing conditions to suit the fabric. Set the sewing thread, needle, and feed amount through test stitching.
- Whether the fabric can be washed does not depend on whether twist setting has been applied. Always follow the care instructions for each fabric.
- Because shrinkage rate changes depending on the material, structure, and post-processing, confirm whether prewashing or sponging is necessary before cutting.
- When ironing, use a pressing cloth and test the temperature and steam level on an inconspicuous area before setting them.
Differences from Similar Terms
Twist refers to the act of adding rotation to fibers or yarn, or to the degree of that rotation. Twist setting is a post-treatment that suppresses the force that tries to return that twist. High-twist yarn refers to yarn with a larger amount of twist, and twist setting is a treatment also used for such yarns.
Heat setting is a treatment that stabilizes mainly thermoplastic synthetic fibers by heat. Heat may also be used in twist setting, but it is treated separately because the main purpose is to stabilize the twist.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does twist setting prevent fabric from shrinking?
Twist setting mainly suppresses twist rollback and twisting in the yarn, and it is not a treatment that completely prevents shrinkage in fabric washing. Shrinkage is also affected by the fiber type, woven or knitted structure, dyeing and finishing, and washing conditions. Before mass production, washing tests and dimensional change checks are performed.
What is the difference between twist setting and high-twist yarn?
High-twist yarn refers to the yarn itself with more twist than usual, and is used to obtain a crisp feel and a crepe-like surface texture. Twist setting is a treatment that stabilizes the twist of twisted yarn, including high-twist yarn, and makes twisting and tangling during processing easier to control.
