Applique
Applique is a technique of cutting separate fabric, lace, or similar materials into decorative shapes and sewing or bonding them onto the surface of clothing or fashion accessories, or the decorative appliqued part itself.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Applique is a decorative technique that involves layering materials shaped like flowers, letters, or emblems onto the surface of a product. By utilizing the color, pattern, thickness, and wool of the materials, it can add a sense of depth and contrast to flat designs. The decorative motif itself is sometimes also referred to as applique.
lace can also be used by cutting out sections and sewing them on, and chemical lace, for example, is sometimes used as a motif for appliqué. With continuous tape-like products, individual patterns that are spaced at regular intervals may be cut off and used separately.
Product manufacturing process
Generally, the shape, position, material, and attachment method of the motif are decided during the planning stage and incorporated into specifications and instructions. The process then proceeds in the following order: cutting or preparing the motif, temporary attachment, permanent attachment, finishing of yarn, and inspection. Whether the motif is attached before sewing or after sewing together the main garment and other parts depends on the design and available equipment.
Sewing techniques include straight stitching, zigzag stitching, satin stitching, and blind stitching. Adhesive types are attached using heat or pressure, and then reinforced by sewing around the edges as needed. This is sometimes treated as a secondary processing performed later in the manufacturing process.
- The position is indicated by the reference lines and markings on the pattern.
- For symmetrical patterns, the placement criteria will be standardized to avoid any asymmetry between the left and right sides.
- Check the stitch type, yarn color, stitch width, and how to finish the beginning and end of the stitching using the sample.
Instructions to be given when placing an order
When placing an order, please clearly specify the external dimensions of the finished motif, the material and color, the orientation of the pattern, the quantity, the mounting position, and the mounting method. If using lace or continuous motifs, please confirm not only the required quantity but also the pattern spacing, the shape after cutting, and the cutting waste. It is important to share the finished product not only through design data but also through physical samples or prototypes.
For materials with textile edges, the appearance and durability will vary depending on how the edges are stitched. For stretchy outer fabrics, thin fabrics, and brushed materials, we discuss the temporary fastening method and whether or not to use reinforcing materials with the sewing factory in advance.
Quality check and points to note
During quality control, we check for misalignment, tilting, left-right asymmetry, loose stitching, broken yarn , shrinkage, wrinkles, and poor adhesion. While tight stitching around the edges helps prevent lifting at the edges, it can sometimes cause the outer fabric to pucker or become stiff. We create prototypes with different outer fabric and motif combinations to evaluate their appearance and wearability.
Washing and friction may cause fraying at the edges of the motif, peeling of the adhesive layer, and color transfer. If the outer fabric and appliqué have different materials or dyeing conditions, it is recommended to conduct tests in accordance with the product handling conditions, including wash fastness and rub fastness.
Differences from similar terms
Embroidery is a process of creating patterns on the surface of textile using yarn , and its basic structure differs from appliqué, which involves attaching motifs made of a different material. However, there are also methods where the edges of an appliqué are sewn in place with embroidery. Printing is a process of creating patterns using ink or other materials, and usually does not involve layering different fabrics.
Patchwork is a technique of sewing together multiple pieces of fabric to create a single surface. Appliqué, on the other hand, differs in that it involves layering and attaching motifs onto a main fabric. lace motifs used for decorative purposes are sometimes considered appliqué.
FAQ
How is appliqué different from embroidery?
Applique is a decorative technique where motifs made from different fabrics, lace, or synthetic leather are layered onto the textile. Embroidery is a process of creating patterns using yarn. However, since the edges of appliques are sometimes secured with embroidered stitches, product specifications will specify the material, fastening method, and appearance separately.
How can I prevent the appliqué from peeling off?
Whether to secure it with adhesive alone or reinforce it by sewing around the edges is decided based on the material and intended use. For products where the outer fabric stretches or where frequent washing is required, prototypes are used to check the adhesive conditions, the hold provided by the seams, and any lifting of the edges. The appearance after washing also needs to be checked.
What are some things to keep in mind when using lace as an appliqué?
Since the shape and tendency to fray will change depending on where the pattern is cut, the shape of the motif to be used is decided in advance. For continuous patterns, the required quantity is calculated from the pattern spacing, and cutting waste is also taken into consideration. For sheer fabrics, the visibility of sewing thread and adhesive marks on the reverse side is also checked.
