Interfacing

Definition and Overview

Interfacing is the process of adding interfacing to the fabric that makes up a garment to adjust the shape, strength, and texture of the necessary areas. The most common method is to bond fusible interfacing with heat and pressure, though stitch-in interfacing is also used.

“Setting the interfacing” may refer to the work of positioning the interfacing accurately on the cut parts. On the other hand, interfacing is generally used to include the process of bonding the set interfacing to the outer fabric and other materials.

Areas Used and Their Role

Interfacing is used on areas where stretch needs to be controlled or contours maintained, such as collars, cuffs, plackets, facings, pocket openings, waistbands, and waist areas. In jackets, it is also used on the front body and lapels.

Depending on the interfacing, it can give the fabric firmness and body, reinforce areas around buttonholes, and prevent stretching and distortion during sewing. However, the wearing comfort and appearance of the product change greatly depending on the area and stiffness of the interfacing applied.

• Maintaining the shape of collars and cuffs
• Reinforcing plackets, facings, and pocket openings
• Preventing stretch in waistbands and belts
• Adjusting the structure and drape of the jacket front body and lapels

Interfacing Materials and Types

Interfacing includes nonwoven interfacing, woven interfacing, and knit interfacing. Nonwoven interfacing is easy to handle and versatile, while woven interfacing tends to give a texture closer to woven fabric. Knit interfacing is used when following the stretch of a stretchy outer fabric is needed.

Fusible interfacing differs in characteristics depending on the type of base material, the type and application state of the adhesive resin, thickness, stiffness, and direction of stretch. Compared with fusible interfacing, haircloth interfacing and non fusible interlining are interlinings used by sewing them in place, and their construction differs from interfacing that is mainly heat-bonded.

Selection and Compatibility

Choose interfacing to match the thickness, stretch, structure, sheerness, and desired silhouette of the outer fabric, while avoiding materials that are extremely thick or stiff compared with the outer fabric. Use different types by area, such as thin, soft interfacing for lightweight fabrics and interfacing that can hold shape for collars and plackets.

When the outer fabric is stretch material, check the stretch direction of the outer fabric and the stretch direction of the interfacing. If the compatibility is poor, tension may occur when worn, or only the outer fabric may stretch and the interfacing may lift, so a trial application before mass production is important.

• Balance between the thickness of the outer fabric and the thickness of the interfacing
• Harmony with the firmness, body, and drape of the outer fabric
• Differences in stretch between the warp, weft, and bias directions
• Suitability for washing, dry cleaning, and product washing
• Whether resin shows through or causes staining on light-colored or sheer fabrics

Notes on Bonding and Sewing

Fusible interfacing is applied under the bonding conditions specified for each interfacing, such as temperature, time, and pressure. If the conditions are insufficient, it can cause peeling or interfacing lift, while excessive heat or pressure can lead to glossing, shrinkage, changes in texture, and bleed-through of the adhesive resin to the back side.

After cutting, align the grain and direction of the outer fabric and interfacing, and remove curling and wrinkles before bonding. Proceed to the next step after cooling and stabilizing the bonded piece to make it easier to check the bonded state. In sewing, adjust the needle, thread, and presser pressure to account for the added thickness caused by interfacing.

Frequently Asked Questions