Haircloth Interlining

Definition and Overview

Haircloth interlining is a type of interlining made by weaving fibers that are mainly animal hair. It is placed between the outer fabric and the lining to give a garment the thickness, firmness, and shape retention it needs. It follows the body while helping maintain a three-dimensional shape, and is an accessory material that affects how well a garment is tailored.

Compared with fusible interlining, which is bonded to the outer fabric with adhesive, haircloth interlining is sometimes used as a non fusible interlining that is sewn in place. On the other hand, there is also pre-cut haircloth interlining that has been treated for easier handling with adhesive processing, and it is used according to the product specifications and factory process.

Areas of Use and Role

The main areas of use are the front body, lapel, collar, and chest area of tailored jackets and coats. In the front body, it suppresses sagging in the outer fabric and creates a raised silhouette that flows naturally from the chest to the hem.

In the collar and lapel, it stabilizes the fold line and supports a beautiful roll and the shape of the edge. As needed, interlining with different levels of firmness and thickness is combined by area to balance mobility when worn and a structured feel.

Materials and Types

Haircloth interlining includes types made with animal hair such as horse hair, as well as types combined with wool, cotton, rayon, and more. Depending on the weave, density, and fiber blend, the rebound, breathability, stretch, and sewing ease will change.

In general, a firm haircloth interlining is easier to keep a clear outline, while a light and soft haircloth interlining tends to blend in with the outer fabric. Since the process and finish also differ depending on whether adhesive processing is used, it is important to clearly specify whether it is pre-cut haircloth interlining or non fusible interlining.

Selection and Precautions

Select it according to the thickness, weave structure, stretch, and intended silhouette of the outer fabric. If a haircloth interlining that is too firm is matched with a thin or soft outer fabric, the outline of the interlining may show through the surface, or unnatural firmness may occur when worn.

For thick or heavy outer fabrics, consider a haircloth interlining with enough strength to support the fabric. However, making only the interlining too firm may reduce comfort. Before cutting, make a layered sample with the outer fabric and check the appearance after bending, rolling, and pressing.

• Check the grain line of both the outer fabric and the interlining to secure the needed stretch and stability in the required direction.
• For curved areas such as the collar and lapel, consider bulk in the seam allowance caused by thickness.
• For products that undergo washing or strong pressing, check the shrinkage difference between the outer fabric and the interlining in advance.

Precautions for Bonding and Sewing

When bonding pre-cut haircloth interlining, test it based on the bonding conditions specified for each interlining, such as temperature, pressure, and time. If the conditions are not correct, insufficient bonding may cause peeling, fading on the outer fabric, adhesive bleed-through, or surface bubbling.

When sewing it in as a non fusible interlining, it is important not to pull the outer fabric and not to apply excessive tension to the haircloth interlining side either. In the collar and lapel roll lines and the chest area, basting and shaping press are used to tailor the garment while aligning the three-dimensional form of the interlining and outer fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between haircloth interlining and fusible interlining?

Haircloth interlining is a woven interlining made from animal hair and other materials, and it is suited to methods that are sewn in and tailored into a three-dimensional shape. Fusible interlining is an interlining that is bonded to the outer fabric with heat and pressure. Since there are also types such as pre-cut haircloth interlining that can be bonded, check not only the material name but also whether it has a bonding specification.

What kinds of clothing use haircloth interlining?

It is mainly used in tailored jackets, suits, and coats, in the front body, chest, lapel, and collar. It not only helps maintain the shape of the garment, but also creates the roll of the collar and the three-dimensional feel around the chest. In lighter garments, it may also be used partially depending on the application.

What should be noted when bonding pre-cut haircloth interlining?

Before full production, it is important to perform a bonding test using the actual outer fabric and pre-cut haircloth interlining. Check not only after bonding, but also the appearance after cooling, how well it follows when bent, and whether peeling occurs. Since suitable conditions differ depending on the outer fabric material and processing, do not judge it under a single set of conditions.