Horsehair Canvas

Definition and Overview

Horsehair canvas refers to a woven interlining generally made using horse tail hair or designed to make use of the properties of horsehair. It combines strong firmness and resilience, supporting the outline of a garment from inside the outer fabric while giving it natural recovery in response to body movement.

It is a type of haircloth interlining, but while the term haircloth interlining refers broadly to interlinings that include animal hair, horsehair canvas is often treated specifically as a horsehair-based interlining with firmness and resilience. The name and construction may vary depending on the supplier and place of origin.

Areas of Use and Role

The main areas of use are the chest, lapels, front edges, and collar area of tailored jackets and coats. When used as a chest canvas, it maintains the fullness of the chest and improves the drape of the front body and the roll of the lapel. It helps create a raised construction that is difficult to achieve with the outer fabric alone.

It may be used in overlapping layers or with changes in width and shape depending on the area. Rather than inserting a strong interlining throughout the entire product, placing it appropriately where needed helps secure shaping while avoiding an overly stiff wearing feel.

• Chest and front body of jackets
• Lapel and collar roll areas
• Front edges and collar area of coats
• Raised chest area in formal wear

Materials and Types

Traditional horsehair canvas uses horse tail hair, but in practice there are also versions that combine hair materials with cotton, rayon, or synthetic fibers. Depending on the material composition, weave density, and thickness, the texture ranges from thin and supple to firm and resilient.

As a woven fabric, it has a grain direction, and stretch and bending behavior change depending on direction. When cutting, it is important to check the direction that needs support and the grain. In areas where flexibility is needed, it is used in combination with a thinner haircloth interlining or another type of interlining.

How to Choose and Compatibility with Outer Fabric

Choose the firmness and thickness of the horsehair canvas according to the thickness, industry weight, stretch, and silhouette you want to achieve with the outer fabric. If a firm horsehair canvas is matched with a thin or highly drapable outer fabric, the outline of the interlining may show through the surface or interfere with the movement of the outer fabric.

With suit fabrics and coat fabrics such as wool, it tends to be easier to take advantage of the outer fabric's firmness and the horsehair canvas's resilience. On the other hand, with knits or highly stretchable materials, followability becomes an issue, so the usage area is limited and the fit and appearance are checked in prototypes.

• Is the interlining not too stiff for the outer fabric?
• Will the thickness of the interlining show through the outer fabric?
• Does it have enough flexibility to fit naturally around curved areas?
• Can it balance the required shape with mobility when worn?

Notes on Fusibility and Sewing

Horsehair canvas is basically handled as a non fusible interlining that is sewn in place. Unlike fusible interlining, which is fully fused to the outer fabric, it is shaped to follow the three-dimensional form of the outer fabric by stitching and manipulation. If a fusible specification is used together, check in advance for adhesive penetration and changes in texture.

Because it has thickness and resilience, seam allowance overlaps tend to become bulky, and care is also needed to avoid fading at collar points and lapel edges. Carry out tests in each process of cutting, pressing, and sewing, and check the compatibility with the outer fabric, puckering, and lifted stitches.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between horsehair canvas and haircloth interlining?

Haircloth interlining is used as a general term for woven interlinings made with animal hair or other fibers. Horsehair canvas generally refers to an interlining among them that is characterized by the strong firmness and resilience derived from horsehair. However, in actual production sites, there is variation in how the two terms are used and the scope they cover.

Can horsehair canvas be used instead of fusible interlining?

Horsehair canvas is mainly a sewn-in interlining, and its role and construction method differ from fusible interlining, which is bonded over the entire surface. It is suitable for applications that create chest shape and the roll of the lapel, but depending on the specification, it may also be used together with fusible interlining.

What should be noted when using horsehair canvas with thin outer fabrics?

With thin fabrics, the firmness, weave, and seam allowance steps of the interlining are more likely to show on the surface, so it is important to choose a thin, soft type and limit the usage area. Be sure to make a prototype under the same conditions as the outer fabric and check for fading and shape after pressing and when worn.