Pad Stitching

Definition and Overview

Pad stitching is a hand-sewing process in which the outer fabric and interfacing are secured together with fine pick stitches. Because the stitches are made in a continuous diagonal line that resembles the kanji for “eight,” it is also called “eight stitching.” It is hard for stitches to show on the surface, and it creates a soft, raised shape while stabilizing the interfacing.

The English term pad stitch is also used in the name. It refers to the method of securing interfacing and does not refer to the interfacing itself or fusible interlining.

Areas Used and Role

It is mainly used for the upper collar, undercollar, and lapel of tailored jackets. Around the collar roll line, it integrates the outer fabric and interfacing, supporting the natural roll from the collar point through the lapel. It may also be applied to areas such as the chest, where a sculpted, structured feel is required.

Rather than simply securing two layers of textile, the stitching spacing and thread tension are adjusted to give the interfacing a slight rounded shape. This makes it easier for the collar to conform to the neck and chest when worn.

Materials and Types

The interfacing used for pad stitching includes haircloth interlining, batiste interfacing, and woven interfacing, selected according to the garment design. In traditional tailored construction, interfacing containing wool and other materials may be used to create shape while preserving the texture of the outer fabric.

As a process, hand pad stitching is the standard, but in mass production, machine pad stitching or fusible interlining may be used to achieve similar shape stability. Some interfacings are designed with smaller adhesive resin dots to aim for softness close to hand sewing.

• Hand pad stitching: A method that makes it easier to adjust stitch spacing and raised shape by area.
• Machine pad stitching: A method that makes it easier to improve process efficiency with consistent stitching.
• Fusible construction: A method of bonding interfacing to retain shape; this is different from pad stitching itself.

Main Applications

The main applications are the collar areas of men’s and women’s tailored jackets, suits, and coats. In particular, because the lapel roll and the settling of the upper collar affect the appearance, whether pad stitching is used and how far it extends are decided according to the tailoring concept.

It is suitable when you want the interfacing to be firmly stabilized without over-restricting the movement of the outer fabric. On the other hand, in products such as casual wear that do not require strong collar structure, it may be omitted or replaced with a fusible construction.

Selection and Sewing Precautions

The type of interfacing and the density of pad stitching are determined according to the thickness and stretch of the outer fabric, the collar design, and the desired firmness. Combining a thin, soft outer fabric with a firm interfacing or strong tension can cause puckering or unnatural fading on the surface.

In sewing, it is important not to let the stitches penetrate through to the outer fabric and not to pull the thread too tight. Check the left and right shapes based on the collar roll line, and work while shaping the structure with steam and an iron. During prototyping, confirm the collar roll and the fit when worn with the interfaced piece included.

Frequently Asked Questions