Hikibaku

Definition and Overview

Hikibaku is a technique, or the woven fabric itself, in which a thin foil material made by applying metal foil to washi and cutting it into narrow strips is inserted as the weft of the fabric. Depending on the foil color, surface treatment, and weaving interval, it can express anything from a glamorous look to a subdued sheen.

Warp yarns are often made from silk or other fiber yarns, and the foil material is arranged so that it appears on the surface of the fabric. Hikibaku is not the name of a weave structure; it is a design technique that uses foil.

Features

In addition to a metallic shine, the texture and irregularity of the washi with foil applied can be seen, creating a richly decorative effect. Its appearance changes depending on the way light hits it and the viewing angle, and it is characterized by its ability to create a three-dimensional feel that differs from flat printing.

On the other hand, foil materials are susceptible to bending, abrasion, and strong flexing, and cracks or peeling may occur with use. The hand feel, flexibility, and durability vary depending on the type of foil, paper thickness, weave density, and ground weave.

Main Applications

It is often used for woven fabrics for traditional Japanese garments, including obi fabric, and is used for glamorous designs for formal wear and special-occasion attire. When expressed with a reduced amount of foil, it may also be used for accessory fabrics or decorative garment fabrics that make use of a subtle sheen.

Although it is not a seasonal material, pieces with strong sparkle are suitable for applications that require visual presence, such as ceremonies, stage costumes, and parties. When used for clothing, placement should be considered for areas that bend repeatedly during wear.

Selection and Handling Notes

When selecting it, check not only the appearance of the foil but also the base fabric material, thickness, firmness, ground weave, and the abrasion resistance required for the intended application. It is important to test bending, rubbing, and the condition near seams on a sample, and to reflect the areas used as the outer fabric and whether a lining is needed in the specifications.

Because washing with water may affect the washi, adhesive layer, or foil surface, follow the care instructions for each fabric and the supplier's guidance. For storage, avoid strong folding, moisture, direct sunlight, and strong friction with other materials.

During sewing, needle holes or presser marks may remain on the foil surface, so perform a test stitch in the seam allowance. Extremely fine stitching and repeated unpicking can easily damage the surface, so consider patterns and processes that reduce the need for resewing.

• When cutting, check the work table for dirt or snags so as not to damage the foil surface.
• For ironing, use a pressing cloth and test from a low temperature, adjusting the temperature and pressure.
• If fusible interlining is used, be sure to check the bonding conditions on a scrap piece to avoid affecting the foil surface.

Differences from Similar Terms

Kinran is sometimes used as a general term for woven fabrics in which patterns are woven with gold thread or foil. Hikibaku refers more specifically to the method of cutting foil-applied paper into narrow strips and weaving it in. Not all kinran is made by Hikibaku.

Foil printing is a process in which foil is transferred or bonded to the surface of the fabric to create patterns or sheen. Hikibaku, by contrast, weaves the foil material itself into the fabric, so the appearance of the luster, the cross-sectional structure, and the changes that occur through abrasion are different.

Frequently Asked Questions