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ApparelX WikiFabric glossary

Tortoiseshell Pattern

Definition

Tortoiseshell pattern is a geometric pattern expressed by repeating or combining hexagons seen on a turtle’s shell, and is a design used on fabric as a Japanese-style or decorative pattern.

Products: Tortoiseshell PatternSee all
Contents6 sections
  1. Definition and Overview
  2. The origins and types of patterns
  3. Main applications and seasonality
  4. Points to note when choosing and cutting fabric
  5. Differences from similar terms
  6. FAQ

Definition and Overview

The tortoise shell pattern is based on a regular hexagon resembling a tortoise's shell. Besides creating a regular, continuous pattern of hexagons, it can also be expressed by placing other patterns inside the hexagons or using only the outlines. Sometimes, the auspicious symbolism associated with tortoises is used as the background for the design.

In fabric , the tortoise shell pattern is expressed through printing, woven patterns, and embroidery. Tortoise shell is the name of the pattern, not a term that describes the weave structure, material, or processing method. Therefore, even with the same tortoise shell pattern, the thickness, texture, and applications of the fabric will vary depending on the base fabric.

The origins and types of patterns

A pattern made by repeating the basic hexagon is called a tortoise shell pattern. Other variations include compositions that repeat hexagons diagonally, compositions that break the outline to add the impression of flowers or diamonds, and compositions that place floral patterns or small designs within the hexagons.

The term "tortoise shell" can refer to the hexagon itself or to a continuous pattern reminiscent of a tortoise shell, and the terminology varies depending on the design and the client. In the specifications, confirming the pattern shape, size, repeat pattern, and placement direction will help prevent misunderstandings.

  • Hexagonal Tortoise Shell: A tortoise shell pattern based on a hexagonal shape.
  • Tortoise shell pattern: A configuration in which hexagons are continuously connected without any breaks.
  • Tortoiseshell pattern: A design in which a different pattern is placed within a hexagonal frame.
  • Modified tortoise shell pattern: A general term for patterns that are created by modifying or decorating a hexagon.

Main applications and seasonality

In addition to traditional Japanese clothing and accessories, it is used for shirts, blouses, dresses, skirts, jacket linings, and bags. Small tortoiseshell patterns tend to give an orderly and delicate impression, while large tortoiseshell patterns tend to give a graphical and impactful impression.

The tortoise shell pattern itself is not associated with any particular season. Thin prints and sheerness materials can be used for spring and summer, while thicker woven patterns and brushed materials can be used for autumn and winter. The sense of seasonality is determined by considering the material, color scheme, pattern size, and product specifications.

Points to note when choosing and cutting fabric

The appearance of a tortoise shell pattern changes depending on the direction in which the rows of hexagons run relative to the grain of the fabric. In addition to fabric samples, the direction, repeat, and symmetry of the pattern are checked when the bolt of fabric is spread out, and the reference position of the pattern is determined on the front of the garment, collar, pockets, etc.

For all-over patterns, we consider pattern matching to ensure that the hexagonal lines and centers do not shift at the front center, back center, side seams, and pocket openings. For large patterns or patterns with a clear direction, the degree of freedom in arranging the parts is reduced, so we may need to allow for more fabric than with solid.

Before cutting, check the front and back of the fabric, the top and bottom, and the direction of the pattern. If the left and right pieces need to be cut in the same direction, or if the pattern will look different when cutting on the bias, it is important to check the placement at the marking stage.

Differences from similar terms

The tortoise shell pattern is based on hexagons. The scale pattern is made up of a series of triangles, so the basic units of shape are different. The hemp leaf pattern is also a series of geometric patterns, but it is distinguished from the tortoise shell pattern by combining straight lines based on hexagons to resemble hemp leaves.

The mesh of tulle and similar fabrics is sometimes described as hexagonal or tortoise-shell shaped; this is a way of describing the shape of the mesh. It differs in purpose and composition from the tortoise-shell pattern that has been stylized, so when selecting a product, be sure to check whether it is a pattern or a mesh structure.

FAQ

What is the difference between a tortoise shell pattern and a scale pattern?

The tortoise shell pattern uses hexagons as its basic unit and resembles a tortoise's shell. The scale pattern uses a series of triangles and resembles the scales of a fish or snake. Both are geometric repeating patterns, but because the basic shapes are different, the way the pattern looks when cut and the criteria for matching the patterns will also differ.

Does a tortoiseshell pattern require more fabric than a solid?

Large patterns, patterns with a clear top and bottom or direction, and patterns that require matching at the front center or pockets may require more fabric than solid. Check the pattern repeat, fabric width, and matching positions for each part, and calculate the required fabric based on the pattern.

Is the hexagonal tulle a tortoiseshell pattern?

While a hexagonal mesh pattern is sometimes described as a tortoise shell pattern, in the context of tulle, it generally refers to the mesh shape created by the fabric's structure. On the other hand, a tortoise shell pattern is a design composed of hexagons. When searching or checking specifications, it's important to distinguish between searching for mesh fabric and searching for fabric with a tortoise shell pattern.

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