Broché Weave
Broché weave is a brocade technique that forms a pattern by weaving the ground structure while adding a separate weft yarn only in the areas where the design is needed, using partial supplementary weft yarns.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Broché weave is a weaving method that forms the basic structure with ground warp and weft yarns, then inserts supplementary weft yarns such as colored or lustrous yarns only in the motif areas. Because the supplementary weft yarns are not carried across the non-patterned areas, it can create clear colors, patterns, and decorative effects on the surface.
The name comes from the process of inserting the supplementary weft yarns only where needed, which looks as if the design is being sewn into the fabric with yarn. Since the pattern is formed by weaving, it produces a three-dimensional feel and a yarn texture that differ from printing.
Features and Appearance
Because different colors, thicknesses, and textures of yarn can be used in the motif areas, it is characterized by a raised pattern appearance and an easy-to-create brilliant luster. Depending on the ground structure, yarn used, and density, the texture can range from supple to substantial.
Areas where the supplementary weft floats are long may be more likely to be affected by friction or snagging. Also, fabrics with a high pattern density or a large amount of yarn may vary in thickness, firmness, and weight compared with the plain ground structure areas.
- It is easy to create multicolored or gold- and silver-like motifs on the surface.
- The outline of the pattern and the texture of the yarn are visible, giving a woven, three-dimensional feel.
- Some fabrics show the ends of the supplementary weft yarns and yarn floats on the back.
Main Applications
Its decorative quality makes it suitable for obi fabric, formal Japanese clothing fabrics, dresses, stage costumes, and partial use in formal wear. In interiors, it is also used for cushions, wall decorations, and decorative fabrics.
Suitable seasons vary depending on the material and ground structure. Those finely woven with thin silk-like yarns may be used for glamorous attire, while those with thicker yarns or higher density may be adopted for autumn and winter garments or decorative applications.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting, check not only the surface but also the yarn floats on the back, the difference in thickness between the pattern and ground areas, sheerness, and drape. When cutting, decide the pattern direction and position, and allow for yardage while considering left-right symmetry and pattern matching.
During sewing, avoid using many fine pins so as not to snag or cut the supplementary weft yarns, and do test stitching within the seam allowance. If there is a difference in thickness, adjust the presser-foot pressure, needle, thread, and seam finishing to suit the fabric.
Shrinkage, color fading, and changes in luster caused by washing depend on the fiber composition and dyeing process. Do not generalize whether home washing is possible; follow the care label. For products that are to be washed with water, it is important to pre-wet the fabric and check shrinkage in advance.
Differences from Similar Terms
Jacquard refers broadly to a device for weaving complex patterns, or to patterned fabrics woven with that device. Broché weave refers to the specific technique of inserting supplementary weft yarns only into the motif areas, and it may also be woven using a Jacquard device.
Pattern weave is a general term for fabrics that express patterns through changes in weave structure. Broché weave is a name that focuses on expressions using supplementary weft yarns among those. Brocade often refers to ornate woven fabrics using gold thread or similar materials, and the broché weave technique may be used in such cases.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between broché weave and embroidery?
Broché weave creates the pattern by inserting supplementary weft yarns during weaving, whereas embroidery is a finishing process that adds designs to already woven fabric with needle and thread. In broché weave, the pattern is built into the fabric structure, while in embroidery, the thread overlaps the fabric surface.
Can broché weave be washed at home?
Whether it can be washed at home cannot be determined by the technique alone. The appropriate care varies depending on the material, dyeing, whether gold- or silver-like yarns are used, the ground structure, and accessories. Check the product care label, and determine the washing method after testing and confirming shrinkage in advance.
What should be noted when cutting broché weave?
First check the pattern direction, left-right symmetry, and the pattern placement between parts, and secure the necessary yardage. Since the boundaries of the pattern may differ in thickness or stretch, also check the sewing positions. The back side with yarn floats requires care to avoid snagging during cutting and sewing.
