Partial Interfacing

Definition and Overview

Partial interlining is a method of using interlining only on the necessary parts of the outer fabric to provide shape stability, prevent stretching, and reinforce the garment. Unlike a full interlining specification in which interlining is fused over the entire surface, it has the characteristic of making it easier to preserve the outer fabric's natural softness, drape, and lightness.

“Partial fusing” may refer to doing partial interlining with fusible interlining. However, partial interlining also includes specifications that use sewn-in haircloth interlining or non fusible interlining, not just fusible interlining.

Areas Used and Their Roles

Partial interlining is used in areas that tend to stretch with wear or opening and closing, areas where the outline needs to be shaped, and areas where components are attached. It is a specification for stabilizing part of the fabric without adding unnecessary stiffness to the broad surface of the body.

• Collars, cuffs, and plackets of shirts and blouses
• Facings, front edges, and collar areas of jackets and coats
• Waistbands and fly extensions of pants and skirts
• Pocket openings, buttonhole areas, and zipper attachment positions

Materials and Types

The interlining used for partial interlining includes nonwoven interlining, woven interlining, knit interlining, and haircloth interlining. Fusible interlining is a method that bonds to the outer fabric with heat and pressure, making it easier to achieve workability and stability. Haircloth interlining and non fusible interlining are secured by stitching and are used for raised shaping and soft tailoring.

The base fabric of the interlining may be polyester, cotton, rayon, or other materials, and with fusible interlining, the type and coating condition of the adhesive resin also affect the finished result. Even with the same material name, thickness, stretch, stiffness, and bonding temperature differ, so it is important not to judge based on applications alone.

Selection and Precautions

Avoid interlining that is excessively thick or stiff compared with the outer fabric, and match it to the outer fabric's thickness, stretch and recovery in woven or knit structure, drape, and the outline required for the product. For thin fabrics or outer fabrics with drape, confirm that the outline or stiffness of the interlining will not show through the surface.

For stretch materials, consider knit interlining or stretch interlining that is less likely to hinder the stretch of the outer fabric. In areas where stretching must be prevented, such as collars and belts, prioritize stability in the required direction and clearly specify the grain direction and cutting direction of the interlining in the specification sheet.

Precautions for Fusing and Sewing

Fusible interlining should be tested based on the bonding temperature, time, and pressure specified for each interlining. If the conditions are insufficient, lifting or peeling of the interlining is likely to occur, and if they are too strong, they may cause glossing, shrinkage, changes in hand, or resin strike-through on the outer fabric.

Before mass production, carry out test fusing with the outer fabric and interlining combination, and check the bonded condition after cooling, surface changes, and the appearance after washing or dry cleaning. The edges of partial interlining are prone to step marks, so attention is also needed for overlap with seam allowance and misalignment during sewing.

Frequently Asked Questions