Pick Stitching
Pick stitching is a decorative sewing specification, done by hand or machine, that shapes the edge by securing areas such as facings and collars while showing fine stitches on the outer fabric.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Star stitching is a specification in which fine stitches are continuously sewn along the edges of jackets, coats, collars, lapels, facings, pocket openings, and similar areas. The stitches appear as dots on the outside, combining the function of stabilizing the edge with a decorative effect that gives a handcrafted impression.
The English term pick stitching comes from the idea of sewing finely, as if picking up the fabric with a needle. In Japanese, it is called star stitching, pick stitching, or hand pick. However, hand pick is sometimes used to refer to a hand-sewn look.
Position in the Process
Star stitching is often performed after the edge shape has been set through fusing, construction stitching, seam allowance trimming, turning, and pressing. Because it is added near the final stage, the stitch placement can affect the overall impression of the product.
In hand sewing, the work is done by catching the outer fabric and the facing on the back side, or by catching the seam allowance, depending on the sewing specification. In mass production, methods that reproduce a hand-sewn appearance using a dedicated machine or a standard sewing machine are also used.
- Outer edge of collars and lapels
- Front edge and facing edge
- Around flaps and welt pockets
- Design details such as cuffs and belts
How to Proceed and Practical Points
In the specification sheet, clearly state the sewing location, the size of the stitches visible from the outside, the distance from the edge, thread color, thread thickness, and whether the work is hand sewn or machine sewn. Saying only "with star stitching" can lead to different interpretations of the finish, so it is important to agree using a sample or enlarged photos.
When the fabric is thin or the surface is delicate, needle holes, thread pulling, and seam puckering may stand out. On thick fabrics or fabrics with a nap, the stitches may be less visible, so confirm the thread selection and how the stitches will appear in advance.
If sewing is done before the edge turn or press state has stabilized, the stitch spacing may become uneven or the edge may ripple after sewing. Before star stitching, check the fusible interfacing, seam allowance thickness, and edge set, and if necessary, perform stay stitching or temporary basting.
Ordering and Quality Points
Hand-sewn star stitching tends to vary in appearance depending on the worker's skill and the shape of the product, while machine star stitching makes it easier to achieve consistency, but the stitch appearance differs from hand sewing. Confirm the desired look and production method with the first sample.
During inspection, check the stitch spacing and distance from the edge, loose or slack thread, thread breaks, missed stitches, and left-right symmetry. If the thread color differs from the outer fabric, the decorative effect is enhanced, but even slight irregularities stand out, so it is smoother to set an acceptable sample in advance.
Differences from Similar Terms
Edge stitching is a specification in which continuous machine stitches are sewn along the edge. Star stitching also secures the edge, but it generally features finer stitches and a dotted appearance. The sewing position and how the thread appears vary depending on the specification.
Blind hemming is a method used to secure hems and facings while keeping the stitches from showing on the outside as much as possible. In contrast, star stitching uses visible stitches on the outside as part of the design. Hand prick stitching is a hand-sewing process mainly used to blend the interfacing and outer fabric and create a raised shape.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does star stitching have to be hand sewn?
It does not have to be hand sewn. Hand sewing is more likely to create a soft look with some unevenness in the stitches, while machine sewing makes it easier to keep the stitches aligned. Based on the desired appearance, production quantity, and labor cost, the finish is confirmed with a sample before mass production and then selected.
Are star stitching and edge stitching the same?
They are not the same. Edge stitching generally refers broadly to continuous machine stitching along the edge. Star stitching usually refers to a specification that makes fine stitches appear as dots. However, because names and interpretations of stitch appearance vary by workplace, samples should be included in the specification sheet.
What should be specified when ordering star stitching?
Specify the location, sewing method, size and spacing of the stitches visible from the outside, distance from the edge, and thread type and color. For collars and lapels, left-right differences should also be checked. If a hand-sewn look is desired, share the acceptable range of uniformity using a sample.
