Purl Knit
Purl knit is a knit structure in which knit stitches and purl stitches appear alternately on the front and back, creating a similar look on both sides and horizontal ridges.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Purl knit is a knit structure in which knit stitches and purl stitches appear alternately in the course direction on the front and back. Because knit stitches and purl stitches appear in succession, the appearance does not change greatly between the front and back, and horizontal ridges are formed.
Unlike structures in which only one side is knit stitch like jersey knit, it is characterized by a similar appearance on both sides. The clarity of the ridges, thickness, and stretchiness vary depending on the type of yarn, yarn thickness, stitch density, and combination with patterned structures.
Features
Because it is a structure with unevenness on both sides, it is a knitting method that makes it easy to create a soft texture with fullness and a sense of trapped air. The horizontal ridges create shading, giving it a textured appearance even when solid. By applying links knitting, geometric patterns created by the raised and recessed texture can also be expressed.
In general, compared with jersey knit, horizontal stretch may be reduced, but dimensional stability depends on the material, stitch count, and finishing process. It is important to check stretch, recovery, and thickness in the actual knit fabric.
Main Applications
Using the warmth and three-dimensional look created by the ridges, it is used for sweaters, cardigans, vests, scarves, hats, and more. It is a structure that is often used for autumn and winter knit items because it can be made relatively thick.
If the yarn count and knitting machine gauge are adjusted, it can also be used for lightweight cut-and-sew items and knit accessories. When the appearance of the pattern is important, confirm the size of the pattern, the stretch of the knit fabric, and the continuity of the ridges where the pieces are sewn together using a sample.
How to Choose and Handling Notes
Depending on the raw material, shrinkage, felting, and pilling after washing will differ. In particular, when using wool, follow the care label instructions and design the product only after checking test results and dimensional changes after washing. If necessary, letting the fabric relax before cutting is also effective.
When sewing, sew without pulling the knit fabric so that the seam can follow the stretch. Because it has ridges, step differences in the seam allowance and press marks may show through on the surface. Check the stretch direction, sewing thread, needle, and stitch specifications in advance on the actual fabric.
- Check the shrinkage rate and skew after washing.
- For patterned fabric, align the ridges and pattern positions when cutting.
- For pressing, avoid flattening and use a pressing cloth or hovering press.
Differences from Similar Terms
Garter stitch refers to a knit fabric in which each row is knit with knit stitches in hand knitting, creating horizontal ridges on both the front and back, and it is a term close to purl knit in terms of structure and appearance. On the other hand, in industrial knitting, the terms links knitting and links-links may be used to describe the machine or structure.
Rib knit is a structure in which knit stitches and purl stitches are arranged alternately in the wale direction, creating vertical ribs. While purl knit mainly appears as horizontal ribs, rib knit is characterized by vertical ribs. Because the usage of terms varies between hand knitting and industrial knitting, confirm with the structure chart or the actual fabric.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are purl knit and garter stitch the same?
Both often refer to knit fabrics that show similar horizontal ribs on the front and back, and they are handled with a close meaning. In hand knitting, it may be called garter stitch, while in the explanation of flat knitting structures or machines, it may be called links knitting or links-links. When ordering, confirm not only the name but also the structure chart and knit sample.
Does purl knit shrink easily?
Whether it shrinks easily cannot be determined by the purl knit structure alone. It differs depending on the raw material, yarn twist, stitch count, finishing process, and washing conditions. When turning it into a product, check the shrinkage rate, recovery from extension, and changes in the ridges through a washing test using the actual fabric, and reflect the results in the pattern.
