Hand-operated Flat Knitting
Hand-operated flat knitting refers to a method of knitting by manually operating a flat knitting machine with a flat needle bed, or to the machine itself, as used in knit product production sites.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Hand-operated flat knitting refers to a flat knitting machine in which a person operates the carriage or otherwise controls the machine to make knitted fabric with needles arranged horizontally, or to that knitting method. The fabric is knitted as flat pieces, and the individual parts are sewn together as needed.
This term refers to the machine and production method used in knitting, not to a material name or a knit structure name. Therefore, the term hand-operated flat knitting alone does not determine the type of yarn, thickness, pattern, or blend ratio.
Features and Expression
In hand-operated flat knitting, needle selection, increases and decreases in stitch count, and switching of the knitted fabric can be performed while operating the machine, so it is used for expressions with dimensional knitted patterns such as rib knit, cable knit, and openwork knit.
The texture, warmth, stretch, and surface appearance of the knitted fabric are not determined by hand-operated flat knitting alone. It is important to check the material, thickness, twist, gauge, stitch density, knit structure, and finishing process of the yarn used.
- Stitch counts can be changed by section to shape areas such as the neckline and sleeve cap.
- It is suitable for designs that emphasize knit-like stitches, since it easily handles pattern and color changes.
- Depending on the pattern and process, tasks such as transferring stitches may take time.
Main Applications
It is used for sweaters, cardigans, vests, knit skirts, knit hats, and more. Autumn and winter items that take advantage of the warmth of wool and similar materials are typical, but if the yarn thickness and material are selected appropriately, it can also be used for lightweight spring and summer knits.
In specifications where parts are knitted separately, the body, sleeves, collar, placket, and other components are made and then joined by linking or sewing. It is also considered for small-lot pattern variations and for products that emphasize the look of the knitted fabric.
Selection and Handling Notes
During planning, confirm the compatibility of the knitting machine gauge and yarn thickness, the stitch density, differences in stretch caused by the knit pattern, and dimensional differences between parts. For samples, also check stretching at areas subject to load during wear, such as the neckline, cuffs, and hem, as well as the appearance of the seams.
Shrinkage and loss of shape due to washing are influenced more by the type of fiber, yarn characteristics, fabric density, and finishing than by the knitting method. Carry out washing tests before mass production, reflect the shrinkage rate in the pattern, and handle the product according to the washing instructions for each item.
When cutting and sewing, the knitted fabric may stretch easily and the edges may curl. Align the grain before cutting, use stay tape or differential feed as appropriate, and consider a construction that does not hinder stretch in the seams.
Differences from Similar Terms
Flat knitting refers to the overall knitting method of making fabric with needles arranged horizontally. Hand-operated flat knitting is a term for a flat knitting machine or knitting process that is mainly operated by a person, and its scope is narrower than flat knitting.
Shaping is a technique for knitting a shape close to the outline of a part by increasing and decreasing stitch count. It may be done with hand-operated flat knitting, but hand-operated flat knitting itself does not necessarily mean shaping. Seamless knit is a method of knitting three-dimensionally while reducing the joining process, and it is distinguished from typical hand-operated flat knit products that are knitted as parts and sewn together.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do hand-operated flat knitting and flat knitting mean the same thing?
Flat knitting is the general method of making fabric with needles arranged horizontally. Hand-operated flat knitting generally refers to a flat knitting machine operated by a person, or to that knitting process. In some workplaces, hand-operated flat knitting machines are simply called hand-operated flat knitting, so it is important to confirm whether the reference is to the machine name or the fabric production method.
Does knitwear made by hand-operated flat knitting always shrink?
Not necessarily. The degree of shrinkage varies depending on the material, such as wool or cotton, yarn processing, knitting density, finishing, and washing conditions. Before mass production, it is necessary to confirm the shrinkage rate and appearance changes through washing tests and reflect them in the specification sheet and pattern.
What should be noted when sewing hand-operated flat knitwear?
It is important to choose the sewing method and thread so that the seams do not pull against the stretch of the knitted fabric. Also pay attention to stretching during cutting and curling at the edges, and use stay tape where necessary. When joining parts, also check the alignment of stitches in linking and dimensional control.
