Arashi Shibori

Definition and Overview

Arashi shibori is a tie-dye technique in which fabric is wrapped spirally or diagonally around a pole-like core, secured with cord or the like, compressed, and then dyed. The difference between the compressed areas and the areas reached by the dye creates flowing streak-like patterns.

The name is said to come from a pattern that evokes rain and wind blowing hard. Rather than referring to the weave structure or material name of the fabric, it refers to a dyeing technique that gives fabric pattern and texture, so it is applied to a wide range of materials such as cotton, silk, rayon, and polyester.

Appearance and Texture Characteristics

After dyeing, it produces gradations, blurring, and wavy lines flowing vertically or diagonally. Because the spacing and direction of the pattern change depending on how it is wrapped around the pole, how tightly it is bound, and how strongly it is compressed, it is a technique in which each piece tends to have a different expression.

The wrinkles and uneven texture left after processing vary in intensity depending on the material and finishing method. When the uneven texture reduces the contact area with the skin, it can feel smooth and not cling to the body, and on lightweight fabrics it can create a light, active impression.

Main Uses

It is applied to lightweight to medium-weight materials and used for blouses, shirts, dresses, skirts, scarves, and more. Because the pattern has a directional flow, it pairs well with items that show the flow of the fabric, from straight silhouettes to designs with drape.

Breathability and absorbency are not determined by arashi shibori itself, but depend on the base fabric's material, thickness, and density. For spring and summer, it is often used in lightweight applications that take advantage of a smooth feel against the skin, and depending on the material and construction it can also be used for decorative items throughout the year.

Selection and Handling Precautions

At the planning stage, check the direction of the flowing pattern, the color gradation, and how much texture remains on the actual material. Even with the same technique name, the appearance changes depending on the wrapping direction and dyeing conditions, so if you want the pattern to look consistent on the left and right front panels or the front and back panels, it is important to consider the cutting positions in advance.

Wrinkling and uneven texture may weaken with washing or tension during wear, and shrinkage or color fading may occur depending on the material. Before mass production, carry out tests in accordance with the care label, and check shrinkage rate, wash fastness, and rub fastness. In particular, with dark colors and multicolor designs, attention should also be paid to color transfer when wet.

In sewing, the uneven texture can make dimensions unstable at the cutting stage, and shifting of seams or puckering may occur. Cut without stretching the fabric strongly, and if necessary, check the presser foot pressure, feed amount, and compatibility with interfacing in advance.

• Allow the material to relax sufficiently before sewing so that shrinkage and distortion caused by processing settle down.
• Ironing may flatten the uneven texture, so check the care label and material properties, and start with a pressing cloth and low temperature.
• When aligning the pattern direction on the finished product, clearly indicate the grainline and pattern direction in the cutting instructions.

Differences from Similar Terms

Shibori dyeing is the general term for techniques that resist dye by tying, sewing, or clamping part of the fabric to create patterns. Arashi shibori is one type of this, and is characterized by the process of wrapping the fabric around a pole and compressing it, as well as the resulting flowing streak-like pattern.

Kanoko shibori is a technique in which the fabric is pinched into small sections and tied to create a series of small bead-like patterns. Crinkle processing is also a broad term that includes methods of creating wrinkles using chemicals, heat, or mechanical treatment, and its pattern-making process differs from that of arashi shibori.

Frequently Asked Questions