Kanmuri-gumi

Definition and Overview

Kanmuri-gumi is a braided cord made by crossing multiple yarn bundles diagonally and assembling them, unlike woven fabrics made by weaving yarn as warp and weft, or knits made by continuously forming loops with knitting needles. It has a distinctive surface texture derived from the braiding method and the flexibility of a cord.

The name may indicate the braiding method of the braid cord, and depending on the product, the material, thickness, tightness of the braid, and gloss differ. For that reason, it is important to confirm the shape and applications with an actual sample or specifications, not only by the name Kanmuri-gumi.

Materials and Structure

Kanmuri-gumi is made with yarn suitable for the intended application, such as silk, rayon, cotton, and polyester. Those made with filament yarn tend to have a glossy appearance, while those made with spun yarn tend to have a softer, more subdued texture.

Because braid cords have a structure in which the yarns intertwine with one another, their feel and bending behavior differ from materials with a flat surface such as woven tape. The density of the braid, whether it has a core, and the yarn thickness affect firmness, roundness, ease of tying, and resistance to friction.

How to Check Thickness

Kanmuri-gumi specifications are generally confirmed by the outer diameter or thickness of the cord rather than by width. However, because the apparent dimension changes depending on the swelling of the braid, the compressed state, and the measurement position, it is necessary not to judge by the nominal size alone.

When using it by threading through holes or loops, confirm the inner diameter of the fitting, the size of the threading hole, and the bulk when a knot is made. For sewing applications, also check through prototyping whether the sewing thread will be buried in the braid or whether the cord will flatten after sewing.

• Thickness or outer diameter
• Density of the braid and surface texture
• Whether it has a core and how easily it flattens
• How the cut ends are finished
• Required length and allowance for tying

Main Applications

In apparel, it is used for tie cords, decorative cords, trim around fasteners, and loops. Because it can show off the dimensional braid, it is also used for Japanese-style designs, stage costumes, formal wear, and decoration for bags and accessories.

For parts that bear load or applications where safety is required, do not substitute decorative braid cord; select materials that meet the necessary strength and durability. Even when used for decoration, check abrasion resistance at positions where snagging or friction may occur.

Selection and Handling Notes

When selecting, check not only color, gloss, and thickness, but also how well it follows curves, the size of knots, and how easily the ends fray. Because braid cord has a braided structure, if it is pulled too hard or the ends are left unfinished, the yarn may shift or the braid may become irregular.

The degree of stretching or shrinking, color fading, and fuzzing due to washing differs depending on the material and dyeing method. If product washing is performed, conduct a washing test with the accessory attached, and decide the specifications after confirming the post-drying dimensions, color transfer, and condition of the finished ends.

• Finish cut ends by a method suitable for the material, such as heat cutting, fray prevention, or sewing in.
• Because ironing may flatten the braid, confirm the temperature and whether a pressing cloth is needed in advance.
• For dark-colored items, pay attention to color transfer due to friction when wet, and also check the fabric used together.

Frequently Asked Questions