Ushikubi Tsumugi
Ushikubi Tsumugi is a silk textile mainly produced in the Shiramine district of Hakusan City, Ishikawa Prefecture, and is a tsumugi that combines a nubby texture with suppleness, made using yarn obtained from tama-mayu cocoons.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Production Area
Ushikubi Tsumugi is a silk tsumugi textile handed down in the Shiramine district of Hakusan City, Ishikawa Prefecture. It is named after the former Ushikubi Village located at the foot of Mount Hakusan, and is sometimes called Hakusan Tsumugi. Because it is a production-area name, it is distinguished from the general term tsumugi, which refers to woven fabrics in general.
Tsumugi is generally a silk textile made using yarn spun from raw silk floss or tama-mayu cocoons, with slubbed yarn. One feature of Ushikubi Tsumugi is that it makes use of tama-mayu cocoons, in which two silkworms make one cocoon, and the character of the yarn becomes part of the fabric’s individuality.
Material and Weaving Characteristics
Because the yarn inside a tama-mayu cocoon tends to intertwine complexly, it is a material that is difficult to reel off continuously like raw silk. In Ushikubi Tsumugi, handwork such as bowl reeling is used to draw out the yarn from the cocoon, and the yarn is made to suit the nature of the material.
As unevenness remains in yarn thickness and slubs, it creates a rustic appearance different from fabrics woven with uniform filament yarn. At the same time, it has the luster and suppleness characteristic of silk, and the texture changes depending on the yarn usage, weaving density, and dyeing method.
Representative Fabrics and Uses
Its typical application is kimono fabric, and solid, yarn-dyed stripes and checks, and kasuri patterns can be seen. Making use of the slubs and woven texture derived from tama-mayu yarn, it ranges from subdued color tones to a wide variety of dyed expressions.
When adapting it for clothing fabric or accessories, it is not always possible to use kimono fabric as-is for Western clothing. Confirm the fabric width, selvage condition, pattern direction, and required yardage, and design according to the intended use such as jackets, skirts, and bags.
- Check the appearance of slubs and weaving irregularities separately from the texture inherent to the material and from quality defects.
- For patterned fabrics, review in advance the yardage needed for pattern matching and how the appearance changes depending on the cutting position.
- Adjust sewing specifications depending on whether the fabric is thin or thick, and whether lining or interfacing will be used.
Points to Check When Procuring
When procuring, do not judge only by the description Ushikubi Tsumugi or Hakusan Tsumugi; confirm the weaving location, material blend ratio, weaving method, and dyeing method. Since the scope of use of the production-area name and the presence or absence of a certificate vary depending on the distribution format, also confirm the basis used for labeling with the supplier.
Fabrics that include handwork may show differences in color tone, slubs, and texture from roll to roll. Before mass production, check the hand feel with an actual sample, and clarify the required quantity, whether the same lot can be secured, the minimum lot, and the lead time for additional orders.
- Fabric width, length, roll number, and usable effective width
- Material composition, dyeing method, care label, and shrinkage rate
- Acceptable standards for color variation, slubs, and weaving defects within and between lots
- Secured quantity for samples and mass production, and lead time for additional orders
Differences from Similar Terms
Tsumugi is often used as a general term for silk textiles woven with slubbed yarn, while Ushikubi Tsumugi is a production-area textile rooted in the Shiramine district of Hakusan City. It differs in that it is not merely a weaving structure name or material name, but a name that includes the production area and technical background.
Oshima Tsumugi and Yuki Tsumugi are also representative tsumugi production areas, but the yarn used, dyeing and weaving process, pattern-making method, and texture all differ. In planning documents and care tags, do not group them together as other regional tsumugi; confirm the individual material information and production-area information.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Ushikubi Tsumugi and Hakusan Tsumugi the same thing?
Hakusan Tsumugi is sometimes used as another name for Ushikubi Tsumugi. However, the naming used in sales materials and labeling may differ depending on the supplier. It is important to confirm the production area, weaver, material composition, and whether a certificate is present, and then decide the product name and label name to use.
What should be considered when using Ushikubi Tsumugi for clothing?
Because kimono fabric is often narrow, first confirm the yardage and cutting plan when using it for clothing. Also decide whether to treat differences in slubs and texture as a design feature or to set acceptance standards. Compatibility with interfacing, shrinkage before and after sewing, and care methods should also be checked with prototypes.
