Extended Facing
An extended facing is a construction in which the facing is enlarged and extended on the inside of the front body of a tailored jacket to cover the area around the chest pocket, or the extended section itself.
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Definition and Overview
An extended facing is a section in which the facing used to finish the front edge of a jacket is broadly extended to the inside. It is often made from the outer fabric, and while reducing the area where the jacket’s lining is visible, it stabilizes the area around the inside pocket and gives the inside a neat appearance.
Applicable Area and Function
It is mainly used on the inside of the front body of tailored jackets, suits, and formal jackets. It is positioned to cover the area near the pocket bag of the chest pocket or hip pocket, and becomes part of the inner design visible when the jacket is opened.
When the extended facing is made from the same fabric as the outer fabric, it is easier to give the inside pocket opening and front edge moderate thickness and stability. It is also a construction that makes the outline on the inside of the front body look more refined than when it is made only with lining.
- Reinforcement and stabilization around the inside pocket
- Adjustment of the appearance on the inside of the front body
- Adjustment of the lining exposure area
- Designing the boundary between outer fabric and lining
Materials and Construction Types
Using the outer fabric for the extended facing is common, but depending on the balance of lightness and thickness, a different fabric may be combined. When the outer fabric is used, the texture of the surface can be carried through to the inside, but with heavy fabrics, seam allowances are more likely to overlap.
The shape and width of the extended facing vary depending on the inside pocket specification, the way the lining is inserted, and the design. In jackets with a partial lining omission at the back, the range of the extended facing and its connection with the back stay affect the interior finish.
Selection and Design Considerations
The outer fabric used for the extended facing should be checked for consistency in color, pattern, and thickness with the outside. With light-colored or thin outer fabrics, it is important to confirm in the actual layered condition whether the seam allowances, pocket bags, fusible interlining, and so on show through to the outside.
The lining is selected based on slip performance during wear and removal, and compatibility with the outer fabric. If the outer fabric or lining has stretch, differences in stretch may cause pulling or waviness. The presence or absence of stretch, grain direction, and interlining conformity are matched at the specification stage.
- Slip performance of the outer fabric and lining
- Sheerness of the outer fabric and overlap around the pocket
- Differences in stretch among the outer fabric, lining, and interlining
- Thickness at the front edge and pocket opening caused by heavy fabric
Differences from Similar Terms
Facing refers broadly to fabric folded to the inside to finish the front edge, neckline, and other areas. An extended facing refers to a construction in which that facing is greatly extended to the inside of the front body, so it can be understood as a type or extension of a facing.
A large facing also uses a larger facing area, but extended facing is a term often used especially for the inner construction that covers the area around the inside pocket of a jacket. However, in actual production and in specifications, the two terms may overlap.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is an extended facing always made from the outer fabric?
It is not limited to the outer fabric, but the outer fabric is often used because the purpose is to show the outer fabric on the inside of the jacket and stabilize the area around the inside pocket. If reducing weight or thickness is the priority, it is designed with a combination of lining or a different fabric.
Do extended facing and large facing mean the same thing?
Both terms relate to facings with a larger area, but they are not always completely synonymous. Extended facing often refers to the construction that covers the area around the inside pocket on the inside of the front body of a jacket, while large facing may refer to the large facing itself. In specifications, the shape is confirmed with drawings.
What should be considered when adding an extended facing to a jacket made with stretch outer fabric?
If only the outer fabric stretches and the extended facing, lining, and interlining do not follow, pulling may occur at the front edge or pocket opening. Check the stretch direction and amount of stretch of each material, choose stretch-compatible lining and interlining if necessary, and avoid excessive pulling during sewing.
