Held-together Yarn
Held-together yarn is a method of aligning multiple yarns in parallel without twisting them together, feeding them as if they were a single yarn for knitting or weaving.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Held-together yarn is a yarn construction, or a method of use, in which two or more single yarns are aligned and used without twisting them together. Multiple strands are fed into a knitting or weaving machine at the same time to create a fuller look and a sense of volume. It is sometimes used in jersey and circular rib fabrics.
Notations such as “30 count held-together” may indicate a specification in which yarns of the same count or different counts are aligned. However, the number of strands, the material, and the yarn count combination vary by textile, so it is important not to judge the final thickness from the notation alone.
Characteristics
Because multiple yarns are used, it tends to create more body, firmness, and volume in the knitted fabric than knitting with single yarn alone. Depending on the type of yarn used and the knitting density, it may also produce a casual look with an airy feel or a natural uneven yarn texture.
Since each yarn is not fixed together as in twisted yarn, the positional relationship between yarns may change during processing or when worn or washed. The texture, stretch, and surface appearance vary greatly depending on the material, count, twist, knitting structure, and gauge.
- It makes it easier to adjust the apparent thickness using multiple strands instead of thick-count yarn.
- Combining different materials or colors allows you to design a melange look or a sense of depth.
- The properties of the single yarns used, such as open-end yarn, are reflected in the touch and appearance of the knitted fabric.
Main Applications
Held-together knitted fabrics are used for products that call for a moderate thickness or a relaxed look, such as cut-and-sew items, T-shirts, sweatshirts, and rib applications. In jersey, they may be used for the body fabric, and in circular rib, for the neckline and cuffs, while they may also be designed for use in the body.
If the material composition and fabric weight are suitable, they can be used for everything from firm spring and summer cut-and-sew items to layered products for fall and winter. Held-together yarn itself is not what determines the season, so thickness, breathability, and whether it is brushed should be checked together.
How to Choose and Handling Notes
When selecting a textile, check not only the number of strands in the held-together structure, but also the composition, single yarn count, knitting structure, fabric weight, and finishing process. In particular, even with the same number of strands, if the material, such as cotton, polyester, or wool, or the knitting density differs, the thickness, firmness, stretch, and changes after washing will not be the same.
Before cutting, let the roll relax as needed and align the grain and knitted structure. For sewing, set the stitching method and thread tension to suit the fabric’s stretch, and perform trial sewing to prevent seam shrinkage and puckering. For easily stretchy knitted fabrics such as rib knit, sew without pulling too tightly.
The degree of shrinkage and twisting caused by washing depends on the type of fiber, the knitting method, and dyeing and finishing conditions. Before mass production, it is necessary to conduct a washing test with a fabric sample and confirm shrinkage rate, skew, and appearance changes, then reflect the results in the pattern and sewing specifications.
Differences from Similar Terms
Held-together yarn is characterized by the fact that multiple yarns are used in parallel without twisting. Plied yarn generally refers to yarn made by twisting single yarns together, so the yarn structure is different. Therefore, held-together yarn cannot simply be treated as having the same count or the same texture as plied yarn.
Core-spun yarn is yarn made by twisting together different yarns, and differs from held-together yarn in whether twisting is applied. In addition, blending generally refers to a spinning method in which different fibers are mixed at the fiber stage, and its process differs from held-together yarn, which aligns multiple finished yarns.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between held-together yarn and plied yarn?
Held-together yarn is a method of using multiple yarns in parallel without twisting them together. Plied yarn usually refers to single yarns twisted together to make one yarn. Even if the apparent thickness is similar, the way the yarn holds together, the surface feel, stretch, and behavior after washing may differ.
Does held-together fabric shrink when washed?
Whether it shrinks, and by how much, is not determined simply by the fact that it is held-together. Material, the properties of the single yarn, knitting density, and finishing conditions such as dyeing or shrink-resistance treatment all have an effect. In mass production, conduct a test according to the washing care instructions, confirm shrinkage rate and skew, and then set the consumption and dimensions.
What should I be careful about when sewing held-together fabric?
First, check the stretch and thickness of the textile, and choose a sewing specification that will not interfere with the movement of the fabric. If the needle, sewing thread, and thread tension do not match, seam shrinkage and puckering may occur. Relaxing the roll before cutting, trial sewing, and checking the appearance after washing are recommended.
