Tailcoat
A tailcoat is a men's jacket worn as evening full dress, with the front cut away at the waist and the back divided into two long tails like a swallow's tail.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
A tailcoat, also called a tail coat, is men's formal wear. It generally refers to a black jacket and is used for white tie, the most formal evening attire. It is not the name of formal wear as a whole, but basically the name of a jacket with tails at the back hem.
There are products called tailcoats for stage costumes and social dancing as well, but they may use materials, lengths, and construction that prioritize ease of movement. Since they do not always have the same specifications as formal court dress, they are checked separately by application.
Parts and Construction
The front body rises diagonally to horizontal at the waist, creating a short front hem. The back body has two long tails extending from the waist, and this outline is the origin of the name tailcoat. It is basically worn unbuttoned in front.
The collar is generally a peak lapel, and the lapels are finished with glossy silk fabric called facing silk. The front body buttons are often decorative, and studs are used at the shirt front and cufflinks at the cuffs.
- The jacket is basically black solid.
- The trousers are matched with black fabric of the same material or a similar fabric with a tuxedo stripe.
- The vest is white and should be long enough not to show too much from the shortened front body.
Materials and Finishing
For the outer fabric, suiting fabrics with a deep color tone and a subdued surface are used, such as Barathea made from black worsted wool. For the lapels, silk satin weave or a fabric with a grosgrain-like texture is used to create an elegant appearance through the contrast in luster with the body fabric.
Because a three-dimensional chest area, the collar roll, and the way the long back hem falls are important, the interlining and sewing specifications are adjusted to the thickness and firmness of the outer fabric. For dance applications, stretch materials or different pattern design may be used to ensure a greater range of motion.
Coordinated Wear and Formality
A tailcoat is worn as formal evening wear together with a white wing-collar shirt, white bow tie, white vest, black trousers, black patent leather shoes, and the like. This full set is called white tie, and it is important to follow the dress code stated on the invitation.
For daytime formal wear, the basic choice is a morning coat. A tuxedo is evening formal wear, but it is positioned as semi-formal wear, one level below a tailcoat. The appropriate attire varies depending on the type of celebration, the customs of the ceremony, and the organizer's instructions.
How to Choose and Handling Notes
When selecting one, check the shoulder width, chest area, waist position, how far the front body rises, and the length and spread of the tails. It is important that the left and right tails are not twisted, that they fall naturally when standing, and that there is no excessive pulling when walking or sitting.
The facing silk section can easily change sheen due to friction or pressure, and wool fabrics also require caution against moisture and insect damage. After wearing, reshape it and hang it on a wide hanger, and if it is dirty, consider professional cleaning according to the care label.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a tailcoat and a tuxedo?
A tailcoat is a jacket with two long tails at the back hem, and it is used for white tie, the formal evening dress. A tuxedo has a normal jacket-shaped back hem and is generally evening semi-formal wear. Both may use glossy materials for the lapels, but their formality and accessories differ.
Can a tailcoat be worn to daytime weddings or ceremonies?
In general Western formal wear, a tailcoat is formal evening dress. For daytime formal wear, a morning coat is worn. However, at concerts, stage performances, dance competitions, and the like, a tailcoat may be used as a costume regardless of the time of day. Follow the organizer's instructions first.
Do you button the front buttons of a tailcoat?
A formal tailcoat is usually worn unbuttoned in front so that the shortened front body can be seen. Some front buttons have a decorative role. On the other hand, for dance or stage use, the way it is fastened differs depending on the movement and design, so check the product specifications.
