Notch Lapel And Peak Lapel

Definition and Overview

The lapel is the part of a tailored jacket or similar garment where the facing on the front body folds back to the outside. The notch at the boundary with the upper collar is called the gorge, and depending on its shape, it is divided into notch lapels and peak lapels.

A notch lapel has a V-shaped notch at the boundary between the upper collar and the lapel, and is also called a diamond collar. A peak lapel has a shape in which the lapel tip extends sharply upward, and is also called a sword collar.

Parts Used and Role

Both are mainly used for the front collar of jackets, suits, and tailored coats. The width of the lapel, the angle near the face, and the gorge position are important design elements that influence the overall impression of the garment and the line of sight.

The lapel is constructed together with the facing and folds back along the roll line. Because it is closely related to the upper collar, under collar, facing, and front edge specifications, it is designed not only by collar type, but also including button position and the three-dimensional shape of the chest.

Materials and Types

The lapel itself is made from the outer fabric, and it is common to use interlining on the facing side to maintain its shape. Under collar felt is an interlining mainly used for the under collar, and is not the name of a material that refers to notch lapels or peak lapels themselves.

For formal applications, there are also specifications that use a glossy contrast fabric on the surface of the lapel. On the other hand, in ordinary suits and casual jackets, the lapel is often made from the same outer fabric as the body, and the interlining is selected according to the thickness and firmness of the material.

• Notch lapel: a standard lapel with a V-shaped notch
• Peak lapel: a lapel with pointed ends that extend upward
• Shawl collar: a collar style with no notch between the upper collar and the lapel, but a smooth connection

Main Uses and How to Choose

Notch lapels are widely used in single-breasted suits, business jackets, blazers, and tailored coats. They create a neat, versatile impression and are suitable for a wide range of designs from everyday wear to workwear.

Peak lapels are used in double-breasted jackets, formal wear, and dressy suits. Because they can emphasize the shoulders and chest, the lapel width, peak angle, and gorge position are considered in line with body balance and the design intent.

Notes on Sewing

The appearance of the roll of the lapel changes depending on the type of interlining, bonding conditions, easing, and shaping. If the interlining is too stiff for the thickness and elasticity of the outer fabric, unnatural stiffness may appear; if it is too soft, the lapel tip and roll line may become unstable.

For notch lapels, check the left-right notch angle and the height of the gorge. For peak lapels, check the left-right symmetry of the pointed tip. Because seam allowance thickness tends to show through to the outside in these areas, it is important to manage seam allowance trimming, pressing open, and pressing processes according to the specifications.

Frequently Asked Questions