Shawl Collar

Definition and Structure

A shawl collar is a collar with a smooth, continuous curve that runs from the front overlap edge to the collar point and around to the back center of the neck. It has no notch at the boundary between the collar and lapel, and naturally folds back to wrap around the neck.

It may sometimes be made with a clear separation between the upper collar and undercollar, as in a standard jacket, but its defining feature is that it appears continuous in the finished look. The impression changes greatly depending on the roll line, width, and roundness of the collar point.

Uses and Function

It is mainly used around the neck and front opening of jackets, cardigans, gowns, robes, coats, and similar garments. It creates a continuous line from the neck to the chest and has the role of making the face area look softer.

Because the front edge and collar are connected, the design of the front facing, undercollar, and fusible interlining affects both appearance and comfort. In particular, the collar roll line is an important element for stabilizing the fold-back position.

Materials and Types

In addition to being made from the same fabric as the body, it may also use a different fabric to take advantage of sheen or color contrast. For formal wear, there are specifications in which a fabric with a different sheen from the body fabric is used for the collar face.

In woven fabrics, interlining supports the collar's structure and roll, while knits are made relatively soft by taking advantage of the material's stretch and thickness. With thick or easily stretched materials, edge stabilizing and interlining selection are important.

• Strongly rounded type: A shape that emphasizes the curve from the collar point to the front edge.
• Angled type: A shape with a slight angle at the collar point for a neat impression.
• Narrow width / wide width: Depending on the collar width, the sense of lightness, elegance, and how the neck area looks will change.
• Same fabric / different fabric: You can choose either a sense of unity with the body fabric or a material contrast.

Main Applications

In formal jackets such as tuxedos, it is used as a neat and decorative collar style. On the other hand, in knit cardigans and loungewear, it is used to create a soft, relaxed neckline.

In women's wear, it is applied to dresses, blouses, jackets, and more, creating a curved and feminine impression. For both men's and ladies' wear, the use can be adapted by the material and collar width design.

Selection and Sewing Notes

The collar width is determined by considering shoulder width, front opening depth, and button placement. The wider the collar, the more presence it has, but the roll and the front edge fit should be checked, and the neck area should be evaluated for gaping or lift using a toile or sample.

Because the curve is continuous, the grain line and left-right symmetry must be managed accurately during cutting. In sewing, clip the seam allowance at curved sections, and after turning to the right side, trim and shape the seam allowance to reduce pulling and bulk at the collar edge.

When using fusible interlining, choose one that suits the thickness, stretch, and drape of the outer fabric. Interlining that is too stiff can spoil the collar's roundness, while interlining that is too soft can make the roll line and collar edge unstable.

Differences from Similar Terms

Notched lapels and peaked lapels are collar styles with notches or corners at the connection between the undercollar and upper collar. In contrast, a shawl collar has no notch and is different in that it continues smoothly from the front edge to the neck area.

Shawl collar is also used as another name for hechi-ma collar. However, in some workplaces, a particularly rounded shawl collar is called a hechi-ma collar, so in specifications the collar width, collar point shape, and roll line should be shown in a diagram and shared.

Frequently Asked Questions